With only 14 kms to walk, I expected to have a nice short day. We slept in and took our time leaving Barcelos. Met a lovely couple at breakfast, who just so happens to be staying where we are tonight. Played photograph to a group of older Italian women who bickered about who was going to stand where. Then stopped at more than one pharmacy on our way out of town in search of compeed and sunscreen. Mission accomplished, feet well bandaged up, sunscreen well applied, we finally got out of town late morning.

The plan was to arrive at Casa Fernanda’s, a must-stop-at albergue half way between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima around 2 today. Which would give us a quasi rest day.

I envision us sitting out in the garden, sipping wine, resting our bodies, taking in the countryside and all as we mingled with other pilgrims.

Instead, and I hate to admit this, I had mixed up our days. Our 14 km day is tomorrow…. Today was 20 kms up hills, down pathways and cobblestone roads in 35 degree, prime time, afternoon heat. Not only that, but it’s a slow decent when you’re walking downhill rocky terrain.

*20 kms isn’t that long. But the sun is so hot out there. It’s a different ball game. When it’s beaming down on you, walking up hills on asphalt, searching for a piece of shade under an olive tree becomes a game to keep yourself from going delirious. Ps. We found a water fountain and practically stood under it, it made a world of a difference, for at least the next 10 mins. That’s the downfall of quick dry clothing.

Back to Fernanda’s, my fantasy of sitting out at Casa Fernanda’s all day slowly drifted away. Happily we did arrive. Drenched in sweat and just in time for dinner…

Welcomed by a glass of homemade, extremely strong wine, a charming and very energetic Fernanda welcomed us into her home. With an outdoor living area in her backyard, she host numerous pilgrims every year. Her and her husband put on a feast. Making everyone who sits at their table feel like family. It’s no wonder people make a point of coming back here.

We felt the true Camino spirit alive in this house. Like a scene in a movie. Truly a blessing to have experienced an evening like this. And all for 20€.

I do however question how this princess is going to sleep in an open room with 10 strangers and only 2 bathrooms.

That’s more of a joke, I know I’ll be fine, but it sure does take you out of your comfort zone. And yet, I wouldn’t change a thing.

Boa Noite!